What can you tell us about Apricity?
This is the new restaurant by chef-owner Chantelle Nicholson. She is best known for Tredwells, where she launched the restaurant with Marcus Wareing and then really turned it into something completely her own.
Over the years, she has received more and more praise for her cooking, which fights for vegetables, while she has a strong focus on sustainability and no waste. That was something that really came out in her latest Hackney pop-up All’s Well, and this Mayfair restaurant feels like the next step from there.
Much of the team is back from before, both from Tredwells and All’s Well (something that is always a good sign of quality), including chef Eve Seemann.
Where is it?
It’s right in the middle of Mayfair on Duke Street, just a few minutes walk from Selfridges or Bond Street Station.
The restaurant took over what used to be a shop but has been completely transformed inside. The walls have been removed upstairs to reveal the plaster work and there is a real sense of shabby chic done extremely well. The attitude without waste is displayed throughout – some of the tables used to stand on Tramshed in Shoreditch, while the chairs upstairs are created from recycled coke bottles. It is one of the nicest new restaurants we have seen recently, so it is particularly impressive that it was achieved with this method with low / no waste.
Where is good for a drink nearby?
If you meet someone for a drink before or after, good recommendations are nearby the bar at The Beaumont, or it’s a short walk to Claridge’s Bar if you’re really pampering yourself.
Where should we sit?
Sit by the window if you can, but really anywhere is good. There is a small space for outdoor seating, and tables can be moved together for larger groups. Downstairs you will find the open kitchen and chef’s table, which is perfect for larger groups (and there is also a private dining room downstairs).
What about the food?
There is a lot of focus on vegetables and low / no waste, but it’s just scratching the surface of what’s on the menu. There is a real sense of something unique about cooking here. Everything looks absolutely beautiful as it hits the table and the menu is filled with winners. The dishes will adapt to the seasons, but you will also find a few classics that they have developed over the years, such as the mushroom dish and “chouxnut”, which you can both see below.
It all starts with snacks and you should definitely order oatmeal and fennel biscuits with spilled dip (it was eggplant on our visit) and the Flor sourdough / porridge-bread combination (you need that bread to dry up as much as you can ).
There’s one thing we’ll say in advance – the prices are a bit punchy. But there is so much attention to detail and amazing products used here that we can see where the costs are going (not to mention that the portions are generous – we went pleasantly full). Here’s a taster of what we tried.
Anything else to look for?
The dishes above are from the a la carte menu, but there is also the option of a five or seven course tasting menu, which you can choose to have completely plant-based if you prefer.
In addition to a few good options for no / low alcohol, we tried one of the cocktails – an excellent rhubarb & herbal vodka collins (£ 13) – and we heard very good things about miso & brown sugar rum old fashioned (£ 14). Great emphasis has been placed on the wine list to achieve a low / no intervention list. Bottles start at £ 33, which is standard for Mayfair, and we were especially taken with the Naturtrub Gruner Veltliner (£ 9 a glass, £ 49 a bottle), which was a good match for much of the menu.
Apricity certainly offers a few ideas that have become more popular lately – namely a much stronger focus and variety of vegetable dishes and a strong approach to low waste. However, it also comes with all that to deliver a menu packed with startlingly good dishes in a restaurant that is beautifully realized. It really is an excellent addition to the Mayfair scene and is highly recommended.
Hot dinners ate as guests at Apricity. The prices are correct at the time of writing.
More on Apricity
Where is it? 68 Duke Street, Mayfair, London W1K 6JU
Find out more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @apricityrestaurant.
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