Paris Fashion Week: From Hermes’ polished fashion to Yamamoto’s unconventional style

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PARIS – Hermes artistic director Nadege Vanhee-Cybulski seized on the vibe of the Burning Man Festival and added swirls of color and utilitarian touches to an elegant spring and summer collection that sent down the runway on Saturday to techno beats.

“A rave in the desert,” announced show flyers, which were handed out by ushers in suits, who also greeted guests with glasses of champagne. (Watch the show here: https://bit.ly/Hermes100322).

The audience sat on risers facing a large set in the shape of a mound of desert sand – a white shape that came alive with moving colors as the show started.

Models marched around the lavish carpeted set on cubist-style platform sandals.

The first look was classic Hermes: a pale tan leather shirt and trouser combination, the top with a collar and wide sleeves, while the pant legs were gently cinched at the bottom.

A burst of maroon looks came later, followed by silky dresses in large patches of orange and pink, garments made from perforated leather and slightly bolder, black-outlined graphic prints.

Tent-like straps lifted panels from edges and decorated exposed midriffs, while laces ran up and down seams, and a minimalist military-style leather vest had a sleek rucksack pouch.

VICTORIA BECKHAM
Victoria Beckham marked her debut on the Paris Fashion Week calendar with a chic lineup on the catwalk, drawing paparazzi photographers and celebrities, including her own family, alongside the fashion set. (See the program here: https://bit.ly/VictoriaBeckham100322).

The designer highlighted her brand’s elevated side with slim dresses and suits, mixing light pastels with all black ensembles and adding silk fringes, with leading models Bella and Gigi Hadid walking the show.

YAMAMOTO
Models draped in asymmetric outerwear, loosely tailored dresses and ruffled details showcased Yohji Yamamoto’s spring-summer collection in Paris on Friday, his latest lineup of poetically unstructured designs. (Watch the show here: https://bit.ly/YohjiYamamoto100322).

The 79-year-old Japanese designer’s hypnotic voice rang out from the soundtrack as models slowly paraded his signature color: black.

Fabrics ranged from pleats to knots, with drapes and cutouts even on flat shoes, while oversized hats added dimension to the monochromatic silhouettes.

Constructed with floating draperies and intricate constructions, the designer’s unique aesthetic, which follows no trend, has drawn a close following in his work.

Front-row guests, including US rapper Tyga, attended the show at Paris’s City Hall, where models presented flowing blouses with ragged hems, lace tops criss-crossed with zips and raised skirts with matching jackets under rows of dangling chandeliers. Known for playing with gender codes, Mr. Yamamoto, emphasized the female body with corseted jackets.

Some looks featured white and bronze graphics that conjure up traditional Japanese calligraphy and artistic baroque prints.

ISSEY MIYAKE
Issey Miyake designer Satoshi Kondo showed a collection of lightweight, sculptural silhouettes built from technical fabrics, pushing the label’s signature approach with looks that ranged from futuristic to romantic at Paris Fashion Week on Friday. The presentation began with a projection of Mr. Miyake’s portrait on screens around the room, the first show since the death of its namesake founder. (Watch the show here: https://bit.ly/IsseyMiyake100322).

Mr. Miyake, who died in August aged 84, was known for developing a new way of pleating fabrics – making clothes that held their shape but allowed freedom of movement. Over the years, the brand has been known to demonstrate the lightness of its often seamless garments by presenting them in motion, on dancers.

There were dancers in Friday’s catwalk show, in dresses with intricate pleats that from a distance looked like delicate knitwear, marking a softer contrast with sharper looks punctuated by spikes.

At the end of the show, a pack of models in peach-colored clothing broke into a run, leapt into the air, and the audience erupted into applause and cheers.

“The closing performance is an expression of the way I see how people can stick together regardless of their gender, skin colour. They should all be together,” said Mr. Kondo told Reuters, speaking through a translator.

“Every collection I’ve made is always a reflection of what I learned and what my team had learned from Issey-san,” he added.

SAINT LAURENT
French fashion house Yves Saint Laurent took to an outdoor runway facing the glowing Eiffel Tower to showcase designer Anthony Vaccarello’s summer collection of dainty evening wear. (See the program here: https://www.ysl.com/en-en).

Models emerged from the darkness and slowly walked down a wide set of stairs before marching around the fountain on towering heels.

They wore sheer, slim dresses topped with sleek leather coats that had prominent shoulders and swept the ground. Chunky bracelets and earrings rounded off the look, a key signature for the designer.

Sir. Sticking mostly to monochrome looks – the first model was dressed in olive tones – Vaccarello focused on the silhouettes. They were slim with no frills, just hints of draping and the occasional asymmetrical cut. — Reuters

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